South West Life

One of the things I love about my job in the wine business, besides getting to taste some extraordinarily good wine from all over the place, is that I get to meet some interesting and genuinely great people in charge of producing some of the wine I have the good fortune to taste.

Two of those people are Mark and Gail Gifford.  Mark and Gail are part-owners of Blue Pole Vineyards, and both are exceptionally passionate about the wine they produce, and the plot of land on which their vineyard is situated. 

As soon as I arrived at the Blue Poles property, I was greeted by the beautiful Jack, a Hungarian Vizsla, and much loved wine-dog.  Equally pleased to see me was Mark (although unlike Jack, he refrained from sniffing my legs), who welcomed me into his stunning home, situated on the property and overlooking the vineyard.  I was directed into the tasting room, and with Reidel glassware and several bottles of Blue Poles wines in front of us, we sat down for a sample and a chat about his passion for wine.

Mark and Gail’s infatuation for wine was sparked many years ago, and a long period spent in New Zealand certainly solidified their affection for it.  Spending a lot of time in and around some of the top wine producers and vineyards of New Zealand aided in increasing their knowledge and drive for great wine.  Mark, a geologist, and Gail, a food scientist, showed such an interest in the wine, vineyards, and overall production of wine that the producers they associated with were excited to see people that shared the same enthusiasm and interest in learning.

Mark’s work in geology led him to settle the family in Busselton, where Mark and Gail would raise their 4 daughters.  Mark, and Blue Poles co-owner Tim Markwell, who worked on a mine-site together, conceived the idea to start a vineyard.  Further discussions with friends and independent “experts” broadened the horizon, and led to the decision in 2001 to take the leap and purchase a suitable property for premium quality viticultural practices.  Mark and Tim's background in geology gave them a firm understanding of the soil profiles and climate required for premium site selection.

The property selected is a 50 acre block overlooking the Margaret River in Osmington, 15km east of the Margaret River town site.   The cooler climate, iron-rich soil and aspects to the south and west, made for the perfect site selection for premium fruit production, and a longer ripening period.  Within six months, Blue Poles were well on their way to producing the wines that they had such a passion for.

9 years on, here I am, about to taste wines that he and Gail are immensely proud of.  As we taste, Mark indicates that he is very happy with the way the wines are looking, and of the fruit that his vines are producing.  He does, however, think that they still have a way to go before the styles are sitting exactly where he wants them, but from where I sit, they are certainly looking good.                                                               

Blue Poles Viognier 2009

If you are a fan of Viognier that has a rich, full-bodied wine that is packed with apricots, then this wine will surprise you.  A much lighter bodied wine, with more delicate stone-fruit characters, and lovely subtle floral notes with a hint of spice.  Finishing with fresh, lifted acidity, this is a very pleasing wine to drink, and certainly indicative of the slightly cooler climate compared to other Viognier produced in the warmer areas of Margaret River.

Blue Poles Allouran 2007

This wine is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, aged in French oak.  Silky, rich, ripe, plum and dark fruits come to the fore, with hints of cigar box and a touch of chocolate.  The fruit is lifted, and well integrated with firm tannins, yet has a slippery, supple mouth-feel which lingers with you long after the wine has passed your lips.

Blue Poles Reserve Merlot 2007

The Merlot produced from the Blue Poles Vineyard certainly shows in this wine.  Once again the rich, ripe plum characters are ever present, along with fresh red berries, and a gorgeous complexity to the nose.  The fruit carries over to the palate, beautifully balanced with hints of aged leather, silky-smooth tannins and smokiness reflective of the oak treatment.  This wine is complex, has real character and amazing length that only dissipates after several minutes.  A really interesting wine that leaves you thinking.

I learned some things this day.  Mark is determined not to run with “the pack”, and will not restrict production to varieties that are "tried and true" in the Margaret River region.   The focus on growing fruit that best suits the site that they have selected, and their commitment to producing excellent quality wine from premium fruit really shows.  Not only that, but it is not every day you meet a family so committed to the cause, and who will open up their home and have me join them at their dinner table for a home-cooked lunch after a tasting.  I think Blue Poles is definitely a producer to keep your eye on, it will only be onwards and upwards from here.